Beau Brummell’s legacy transcended his own expectations. Aiming to revolutionise the fashion of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, in what was known as the ‘Great Male Renunciation’ but ultimately affecting menswear to this very day. After attending Eton, he briefly served in the Army (in the 10th Hussars) but fell out of favour with settlement in Manchester and returned to London. In resigning his commission, he found himself thrusted into high society – within the Prince Regent’s inner circle. Being exposed to aristocratic fashion, used as a symbol of status and power, Brummell found his personal fashion philosophy conflicting with the extravagance and vulgarity of the style inspired by the French Court. Opting instead for an elegant simplicity in both casual and formal wear. Brummell was also considered to be the quintessential ‘dandy’, but it was the embodiment of these ideals which allowed him to rise to such prominence in the world of fashion.
Beau Brummell placed significance on crafting his personal style to project an image of refined masculinity – where a man would invest time and care into his deportment and appearance. As well as what he wore, it was just as important to consider how he spoke and how he physically looked too. Grooming was essential and he reportedly spent hours each day before leaving the house combing his hair to a slick back. He was staunchly opposed to facial hair and was clean-shaven himself, as any form, he believed, was untidy and a hindrance to the smooth complexion he sought. Like facial hair, he believed that anything that impeded on a man’s ability to look sharp should be avoided. Brummell was also an early advocate for regular bathing which was remarkably unusual at this time but was something so obvious to a man who was so concerned about his scent. Such self-conscious attitudes expanded rapidly within society and has been continuously prevalent since, with individuals like the Duke of Windsor being known for the meticulous protection of their image. As an identity, dandyism is nonetheless relevant in the modern world, with many being able to express themselves through their appearance. Brummell’s deliberate focus on self-care laid the foundation for men to take up a role within fashion, starting with themselves. Of course, Brummell did not stop his vanity there and paid close attention to the cut and fit of every garment that touched his skin.
Radically departing from the opulence of French fashion, Brummell’s wardrobe was set up in a much more minimalist manner – lending to the concept of understated wealth. Subtlety was essential, and Brummell always believed that less could be more when regarding sophistication in fashion. He favoured pristine white shirts, well-tailored trousers, simple waistcoats and dark coats (often his coat of choice was the frock coat, adopted from his time in the military). These items demonstrate a blatant rejection of the impressively bold, richly embroidered fabrics of brocade and lace adorned with ostentatious accessories. To Brummell, what mattered was the quality (which, in fairness, he never argued against for the French fabrics), cut and fit of the clothing. In his eyes, there should be nothing that distracted from precise tailoring of a garment. Beau Brummell’s daily outfit was a consistent ensemble comprised of riding boots, full cut trousers, a starched white shirt with a cravat (borrowed from his Etonian uniform), buff waistcoat and bath coating (a reformed tailcoat which he had also adopted from his time at Eton and in the cavalry). Similarly, evenings saw him appear in shoes or slippers as opposed to boots, over-the-calf striped silk socks, trousers that stopped around the calf, a lower cut waistcoat (either white or black) and a blue coat again.
Brummell’s transformative shift to understated fashion reflected the developing social and political climate of the Regency era. He demonstrated that one can rise to be a part of upper society through merit rather than through inheriting titles and estates. Although the power of the aristocracy began to decline, a new bourgeoisie emerged, and Beau Brummell’s influence was not limited to fashion but also through his self-made gentleman status. His fashion philosophy contributed to a larger cultural shift because political institutions were gradually becoming more inclusive, allowing for the rise of new individuals from different social backgrounds, just as he had. Beau Brummell’s tasteful aesthetic was quickly adopted by the Prince of Wales (later Prince Regent and then George IV) highlighting the monarchy’s progressivism as it abandoned the exuberance of the past and began to present a more dignified alliance with the riding middle classes, a feat essential in keeping the monarchy relevant. He was referred to by Charles Dickens and was a great inspiration to Lord Byron and Oscar Wilde, who continued to use fashion and education to assert identity and autonomy.
The principles that Brummell held dear are still ever present in men’s fashion today. The versatility of a darker palette, the significance of minimalism and the importance of well-tailored garments are factors that are evidentially relevant when crafting suits. Full cut, high-waisted trousers were seen as the norm up until the rise of slim (and unfortunately, skin-tight fit trousers) options. Of course, this is not only due to companies wanting to cut costs by using less fabric but also a societal fashion trend. But this is a challenge to Brummell’s wish for a classically timeless look with his clothes. The fitted silhouette of a frockcoat with structured shoulders is clear in Savile Row’s maintenance of crafting suits with more shoulder padding than say in Italian or US tailoring. Over time, the frockcoat shortened into a jacket but it’s origins can still be seen in military ceremonial day dress (with frockcoats still used by the Army and Navy), morning dress (with rounded tails) and full evening dress (or white tie: sharper tails, or, as called by tailors, the dress coat). The drastic contrast in colour was also brought upon by his use of lighter waistcoats and darker jackets – a feature of formal attire. The modern suit was fundamentally developed out of Brummell’s fashion of the day. It would be unfair to also forget his importance on the continued use of neckwear through articles like neckties, bowties, scarfs and the more uncommon cravat. Excluding certain fabric choices and perhaps some especially decorative pocket squares, for many men, they are only able to express themselves through their ties. Nothing can supersede his emphasis on having garments fit to oneself with bespoke tailoring, an expensive but worthwhile investment into fashion.
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https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/beau-brummell-the-original